Thorpe Bay Yacht Club

Tel: 01702 587 563

 A GUIDE TO MOORING AT

THORPE BAY YACHT CLUB

 

Thorpe Bay Yacht Club has a number of swinging moorings available both East and West of the slipway.

If you are looking for a mooring TBYC enquires and application should be made to the Moorings Officer. Please contact the Club Secretary who will pass your enquiry on to the relevant person.

Alternatively you may complete the application form via this link Moorings Application Form,  and email it to the Moorings Officer or post it to

The Moorings OfficerThorpe Bay Yacht Club 115 Esplanade Gardens Thorpe Bay Essex SS1 3NW

 

The reverse side of the application form details the Club Bye-Laws relating to the moorings. It is requested that members taking up moorings note the Bye-Laws and the following notes for happy and safe use of the moorings. Bad mooring practice affects all members, if not directly by damage then by insurance.

To help members a guideline has been drawn up to provide useful information to create a safe and practical mooring for your boat. It is reproduced below or you can download a pdf via this link

There is Bosuns Boat that is run by the Club to enable you to get to and from your mooring at weekends and Bank Holidays. The ability to run such a service relies entirely on member with Cruisers on mooring or lifting out at TBYC making themselves available for duties on one to two days a season as determined by the Cruising Section Committee’s annual review.

The Mooring Officer will also organise a root dig (usually annually) as the need arises, so that members can be sure of the quality of their mooring

MOORING INFORMATION AND TIPS

also available in pdf format via this link TBYC Mooring Guide (for laying and maintaining moorings; PDF)

 

The following notes and supplement are provided as guidance to Members who have a

mooring at the club. In applying for or accepting a mooring, Members agree to the

conditions on this page and elsewhere (e.g. in the Club Rules):

The responsibility for the mooring is entirely that of the mooring holder and they must

satisfy themselves that the design of the mooring and equipment used is more than

suitable for their boat i.e. that sufficient safety margin is allowed for.

In no way can TBYC or Moorings Officer accept any liability or responsibility for any failure.

The allocation of a mooring is made under the terms of the Club Rules and the Southend

on Sea Borough Council’s standard terms and conditions (as amended by the Essex Act

1987 – Section 81. Copies are available from the Club Secretary.

Mooring roots are the responsibility of the mooring holder but may only be replaced under

the supervision of the Moorings Officer. The Moorings Officer usually makes arrangements

for inspection/replacement annually, prior to Lift-In.

To stay clear of nearby boats, the length of mooring riding chain from the root (sea bed) to

the bow roller must not exceed 7 fathoms (42 feet or 13 m). If connecting to existing root,

make sure you have uncovered all riser chain and check riser & root for condition & length.

Riding Chain must not be less than:

• 8mm (3/8”) – under 22 feet boat length incl. Sandhoppers

• 13mm (½”) – 22ft – 25ft boat length

• 16mm – 26ft – 29ft boat length

• 30ft plus boats – as appropriate

The system must be chain from root to kingpost. Rope pennants are recommended as

back-up to the chain pennant, and for ease of pick-up. Shackles must be backed up by

another shackle or alternative, and all pins moused.

Members must check and maintain their moorings as necessary. E.g. at start, during and at

end of the season.

Acknowledgement

The information in this guide has been based on extracts from ‘The Professional Users’

Guide to Norfloat Buoys, Fenders, Aids to Navigation and Mooring Systems, amended for

Thorpe Bay conditions. We would like to thank Norfloat for providing this invaluable

guidance. http://www.norfloat.com/

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Joining chain

Shackles are the most common point of failures, so shackles are doubled up.

Overlap chain ends by several links and shackle the end link of each to the adjoining link

using largest shackle that fits. There is more clearance in the end-link, so put body of

shackle there and its pin through a link in the adjoining chain. (With tested shackles, pin is

often thicker than body. Check fit in the chandlers.) It is probably best that the end link of

the smaller chain takes the strain. Consider replacing cheap pins with bolts & locknuts.

Suggested purchase list for moorings (excluding root)

Under 22 ft. basic system

Buoy (without steel rings etc)

13m (42ft) 8mm (3/8) black (ungalvanised) tested chain [11 m (36ft) Sandhoppers]

2m (6ft) 5/16” (7mm) galvanised chain pennant

3 m (9ft) 20mm dia rope (non-floating) rope pennant/pickup

1 thimble

2 x 3/8” ‘U’ shackle (tested) – root to riser

2 x 5/16” ‘U’ shackles – riser to chain-pennant

2 x 5/16 bow shackles – end loop and rope pennant

Wire or black cable ties for mousing

22 ft – 25ft. basic system

Buoy (without steel rings etc)

13m (42ft) 13mm (1/2”) black (ungalvanised) tested chain

3m (9ft) 3/8” (8mm) galvanised chain

3 m (9ft) 20mm dia rope (non-floating)

1 thimble

2 x ½” (12mm) ‘U’ shackle (tested) – root to riser

2 x 3/8” ‘U’ shackle (tested) – riser to chain-pennant

2 x 3/8 bow shackles – end loop and rope pennant

Wire or black cable ties for mousing

For larger boats scale up accordingly (see page 1)

Over 24 ft

Buoy (with steel rings and / or shaft)

13m (42ft) black (ungalvanised) tested chain (see page 1 for suggested link size)

3.75 m (12ft) 3/8” (8mm ) galvanised chain [or larger according to bow roller]

4.5 m (15ft) 20mm dia rope (floating)

2 thimbles

2 x ½” (12mm) ‘U’ shackles (tested) root to riser

6 x 3/8 bow shackles – riser-buoy, buoy-chain-pennant, loop & rope pennant

Plastic tube (protects buoy against chafing)

Pick-up buoy and rope (if required)

Wire or black cable ties for mousing

The above lists and associated sketches are suggestions only. It is up to individuals to

accept or modify the system at their own discretion and satisfaction.

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Recommendations

Chain

Buy fully tested chain and shackles that are oversized for the weight of your boat. Paying a

few pounds less may result in costing you hundreds later. Oversize chains wear less, last

longer and increase the safety factor substantially. Black (ungalvanised) riser chain has

been found to last as long if not longer.

• If possible buy mid-link chain (it allows a

larger shackle to be used)

• Check your chain frequently and replace it

every 3 to 4 years

Shackles

The most frequent point of failure, with a shorter

life than chain. Failures occur because if they are

too small, are poor quality, are worn, the pin has

not been secured (moused), the mousing breaks, or the pin-eye rusts through. So:

• buy tested shackles

• use the largest shackle possible (or two shackles in parallel) & mouse securely

• remember – most ‘agricultural mild steel shackles only have a Safe Working Load

(SWL) of around 30cwt or 1.25 tons/tonnes

• check shackles frequently and replace before necessary.

Swivels

Help to prevent chain twisting, tangling and breaking. Badly twisted chain is much

weakened, so if this is happening, you need to add a swivel. However, if one is used it is

another source of wear and a single point of failure.

Oversize it, check often and replace it before necessary.

Mooring Buoys

Mooring Buoys are either solid foam or inflatable and

have a rod/ring, solid bar or chain to shackle to the riding

chain. They do have their advantages particularly if you

have a heavy riding chain.

• Paint the boat name on the buoy

• Minimum size – 300m (12”) yellow or orange. In general the bigger the better.

With small-medium mooring buoys, the rod & upper loop are lightweight so pick-up buoy /

pennants must shackle to bottom swivel, not the top ring. Larger buoys have

the connecting swivel on top. Use galvanised chain and/or heavy ropes for pennants.

Snubbers

Failures seem to happen as a result of snatching, twisting, worn or loose equipment or a

combination. A longer length of chain does not seem to reduce snatching to any degree,

but a snubber and weight in the riding chain do. A tyre about half-way down the chain acts

as a robust snubber and adding a length of scrap chain adds weight.

A 30′ boat was moored on this thin link, worn to

about 1/6 of its original cross-section al area.

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Supplementary information to the Quick Guide to Mooring at TBYC

Moorings

Riser chains, swivels and most importantly the shackles need to be checked at least once a

year for wear or corrosion (every shackle in the system should be moused / seized).

Pick-up buoys should always be connected to the correct swivel of the mooring buoy with

heavy rope and / or chain pennant line to the boat.

With severe tide and seas at Thorpe Bay, chain should be used across the deck with a

heavy rope pennant as back-up. Ensure that the stem head fitting is sturdy enough with

high sides and use a drop-nosed pin or rope tie to prevent the chain jumping out and

sawing through the side of the boat.

Rope pennant lines must be made properly, with a thimble spliced in one end (four tucks),

and a soft eye in the other. A length of poly-tube over the rope will prevent chafe. The

pennant if used as back up to the chain should not be under tension, so if the chain

pennant fails the boat is still attached to the riser chain by an unworn rope. A rope pennant

may be as strong as chain, but remember splices reduce the breaking strain of rope by

about 30%.

Chains and Shackles

Quality: Beware of reconditioned chain; it is often totally unsuited to the marine

environment. Avoid high tensile steel; it is used extensively in the fishing industry, is often

available second hand and is ‘work hardened’. Its life will not match that of new steel.

Chain Anodes: Fitted to the riser of the mooring it can

extend the life of a chain dramatically. Chain wears/rusts

most at upper end, so turning end-to-end increases its life.

Mixed Metals: Never mix metals in a mooring. Stainless

Steel shackles are not happy under water, particularly if

attached to galvanised chain and will give problems.

Shackles: Avoid cheap ‘commercial’ shackles from the Far

East; their corrosion rate can be fantastic. Pay more, for a

shackle made to British Standard 3032, which will give good

service. Mouse shackles – corrosion and wear can loosen

shackle pins, and the eyes can rust through. Use black cable ties, Monel or galvanised wire

for seizing, NOT white cable ties, copper, or other metal. Grease or LocTite pins and

threads, and don’t over-tighten.

Swivels: These can be one of the biggest source

of problems, and should be checked often and

renewed if necessary every season. Use a

oversized fabricated swivel as they far outlast the

forged type, and are a fraction of the cost.

Cheap shackle after a season.

Only mousing held the pin in.

Oversized swivel allows two shackles (with bolts

& nyloc nuts) to riser, & rope + chain pennants.

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Chain strength and weight comparisons:

Please note: all sizes, weights and proof loads are approximate

as they vary from maker to maker. Always check with your

supplier.

Chain weights etc are generally taken from manufacturers tables

and are provided as a guide. Always check with your supplier to

confirm their exact specification for the chain or shackles being

purchased.

Size (mm) Size (inches) Weight (kg/m) Proof Load (kg)

Long Link

13 ½ 3.34 3190

16 5/8 5.06 4530

19 ¾ 7.14 6820

22 7/8 10.46 10000 26 1

13.38 12770

Medium Link

13 ½ 3.50 3200

16 5/8 5.30 4800

19 ¾ 7.40 9100

26 1 12.80 11800

38 1.5 13.38 27300

Short Link

11 9/16 2.67 2280

13 1/2 3.72 3190

16 5/8 5.64 4830

19 7/8 7.96 6820